Timeless Style

with Amy Sall

Amy Sall is the founder of SUNU: Journal of African Affairs, Critical Thought + Aesthetics, teaches courses as an adjunct professor, models occasionally and happens to have great style. A unique mix of talents that amongst others caught the attention of Rihanna, who booked her for the latest Fenty campaign. Here, the multifaceted New Yorker with Senegalese roots talks to us about her distinct style and shows how she wears the Carolyn in chocolate.

Pictures by Sandra Semburg

 
 

Tell us why you consider the Carolyn in chocolate a timeless piece of clothing and how does it replenish your wardrobe?

The Carolyn dress is a beautiful, timeless piece because of its simplicity and versatility. It’s a piece you can build into a much fuller look, or wear it just as it is. The silk slip is a classic that has quite literally transcended time.

Explain the three looks you have styled with the Carolyn in chocolate

Look 1
I styled a few simple, monochromatic looks that have varying textures. I love wearing chocolate brown as my nude. For the first look I paired the Carolyn with a vintage, brown, velvet OMO Norma Kamali jacket, a pair of vintage gold Prada heels and a vintage chocolate colored bag. I would wear this look to a meeting.

Look 2
For the second look I paired the Carolyn with a chocolate brown mock neck sweater, a chocolate, leather vintage bag and vintage black heels. I would wear this look if I am participating in a panel discussion.

Look 3
For the last look, I wore the Carolyn by itself with my vintage gold Prada heels. I would wear this look to a dinner date. 

What are other wardrobe staples of yours and your go to brands for such?

It would depend on what season we’re in, but my wardrobe staples are high-waisted pants, sweaters, turtle necks, slingbacks and mules (usually vintage Manolo Blahnik or Prada).

With which accessories do you like to wear your REFINE piece?

I love to pair my Carolyn dress with simple jewelry and a small vintage bag.

In which color would you like to see the Carolyn dress?

I would love to see the Carolyn dress in a deep emerald green!

 
Amy’s vintage Prada mules

Amy’s vintage Prada mules

 
I know influencer is now part of our lexicon, but I hope we can be a bit more imaginative and find language that provides more space and reflects our multifaceted selves and career paths.
Look 1: The Carolyn in chocolate worn with a vintage blazer by OMO Norma Kamali, vintage heels by Prada and vintage bag

Look 1: The Carolyn in chocolate worn with a vintage blazer by OMO Norma Kamali, vintage heels by Prada and vintage bag

I’m not so concerned about brands as I am about the silhouette of a garment, its quality, and the implications that surround a piece.
 

What are the most treasured pieces in your wardrobe?

I especially love pieces that come from the closets of my loved ones. These pieces are the most meaningful and timeless. I have such amazing things from my mother and sister, and I have pieces I treasure from my dear friend Helga.

The most iconic African fashion designer in your opinion and why?
 
There are so many African designers I love, but when I think of iconic, I think of Senegalese fashion and costume designer and stylist Oumou Sy. She gave birth to Senegalese couture and has done some of the most brilliant work for many years. She has a distinct voice and point of view. Oumou Sy has costume designed for many of my favorite films and has styled some of my favorite artists and musicians. She is also the one who created Dakar’s first fashion week in 1997.

And today, who are African designers whose work you love?

Africa is full of incredibly talented designers. Creating beautiful garments is just part of our collective culture and history. Some of my favorite African designers of today are linking back or paying homage to our cultural dress practices and are using techniques that are centuries old. I especially love the designs of Kenneth IzeThebe Magugu and Sindiso Khumalo.

How do you see the future of African fashion?

I see African fashion continuing to flourish, continuing to be present in the global fashion market and directly making a positive impact in Africa.

TS - Amy Sall - Look 2 - Details
 

Who are your style icons?

I’ve always admired the style of Cicely Tyson in the 60s and 70s. I also love the style of all the subjects of a few favorite African portrait photographers like Sanlé Sory, Seydou Keita, Mama Casset and Malick Sidibé.

And today, which industry insider’s style do you love?

Tamu McPherson! Everything works on her.

Which are your favorite Instagram accounts to follow?

Besides the accounts of my family and friends - and of course besides @sunujournal - some of my favorites are:

@inthehoneypot
@mdfg.nyc
@syllartrecords
@nemiepeba
@vintagesenegal
@dusttodigital
@vintageblackglamour

This is by no means an exhaustive list! There are so many great accounts I love.

Is there something that’s persistent on your wish list and you are planning to buy one day on a special occasion?

I collect vintage photography and printed ephemera from Africa and the diaspora. These items are always on my wish list and I buy at least one thing every now and then.

Timeless beauty - what’s your secret, your routine?

I approach beauty like I approach my style: Less is more. I don’t use too many products and I don’t wear much makeup.

You are one of the few influencers who kept a very distinct voice and style of their own and have an edited list of clients they work with. How do you choose the brands you collaborate with? 

I am very intentional about everything I do! Intention and integrity are two of my cornerstones. They come before whatever fee or product is being offered. It’s so important to be clear on who you are and the work that you do because that in turn dictates the appropriate brands to work with and how you work with them. Another important thing that factors into how I decide which clients I work with is, that I have to love the brand and what they stand for. The collaboration cannot be purely transactional and I can't simply post a product I don't believe in with pre-written copy and hashtags. I have to love the brand, and I have to share it in my way and in my voice. Before fashion, comes my own work, the kind of woman I believe myself to be and my goals. The fashion and beauty worlds compliment my life, they are not at the center. When brands work with me, it is important that they know they are working with Amy Sall who heads SUNU Journal, who teaches, who is interested in certain issues, and who also happens to have great style. Brands are attracted to my social media, but my following is a result of who I am and my work. I will never bend to fit the needs of a brand. If I am being asked to do things that do not make sense for me, I simply pass. Every project that I participate in has to make sense for me and the world I’ve constructed for myself.  I disavow the term influencer and never refer to myself as such. I am more interested in my own self-definition and that is what I abide by. I know influencer is now part of our lexicon, but I hope we can be a bit more imaginative and find language that provides more space and reflects our multifaceted selves and career paths.

The same applies to your personal wardrobe. It seems very edited yet always of the moment. Any tips for updating your look whilst staying true to yourself?

I have a uniform way of dressing. I usually wear variations of the same. Over time you become more aware of what you like and what you don’t like, so having an edited wardrobe takes time. I like things that are well-made, simple, understated, elegant and timeless. I’m not so concerned about brands as I am about the silhouette of a garment, its quality, and the implications that surround a piece. Where was it made? Under what conditions? Can I wear this piece in five to ten years? Because of these considerations, I usually buy second hand or vintage or support new designers, who are making beautiful, well constructed garments with care. 

 
Look 2: The Carolyn in chocolate worn with a sweater, vintage bag and vintage mules

Look 2: The Carolyn in chocolate worn with a sweater, vintage bag and vintage mules


You are dedicating a big part of your work at SUNU Journal to the African film industry. Fashion and film. In your opinion, what are some of the best film wardrobes of all time?

Two of the best would be In the Mood for Love (2000) by Wong Kar-wai and Hyenas (1992) by Djibril Diop Mambéty for which Oumou Sy designed the costumes.

 
I’ve been able to refine and distill my style through a process of self-understanding and awareness.

Your first memory of fashion?

My first memory of fashion is probably from the Glamour magazines my mom used to have when I was a kid.
 
Who has shaped your sense of style?

My sense of style never really derived from other people’s way of dressing. It emerged through an understanding of myself, my wants and needs. There are people who I think have great taste and whose style I admire, but I don’t look to others for how I dress myself. I’ve been able to refine and distill my style through a process of self-understanding and awareness.

 
 

Be Inspired by Amy's Timeless Style

 
 
 

Things that never get old for Amy

 

Timeless movie?
Black Girl / La Noire de... by Ousmane Sembène

Timeless song?
Smooth Operator by Sade

Timeless story?
Beloved by Toni Morrison

Timeless piece of art?
A poem you love

Timeless scent?
Senegalese incense called thiouraye
 
Timeless thing to do in New York?
Walking anywhere or sitting in a park

Timeless thing to do in Senegal?
For me, eating and hanging with family and friends

Timeless wisdom?
Someone’s opinion of you is none of your business.